After adjusting the wheel stops I'd been using the camper was rolled fully out of the building in order to better access the roof. I installed the remaining rafters and my electrician routed his wiring as needed; since it typically ended up being the most direct path, a majority of the wiring is run up in the roof cavity. I'm replacing the metal roof with a new Dicor membrane roof. The wiring will be sandwiched within 3/4" - 2" of rigid insulation and then 1/8" luan (the same RevolutionPly I'd used for the walls) laid overtop. The membrane roof is then glued down to the luan with the prescribed adhesive. All rafters were notched as needed for wire runs and metal plates places overtop of the wires to protect them from any future damage from fastening.
Exterior Skins & Electrical
All exterior skins are on. All windows are in, roof construction is wrapping up for remaining trim and next up is building the door jamb.
Exterior running lights are being installed and interior wiring is almost complete. The batteries are hooked up and battery boxes in place/ vent holes cut (the boxes will vent through the floor a well as through the wall for adequate ventilation). The original 15 amp inlet (for shore power) was replaced with a more substantial 30 amp motor box which is now charging the battery bank.The (2) group 27 batteries will provide 240 amp hours and will be charged by 200 watts of solar.
When I bought the camper I was told that the door had been recently rebuilt and insulated. Low and behold... when I went to replace the metal on the interior side and opened it up there was no insulation and the framing was slightly rotted. So time to replace. The door is built with 2x3's so two layers of 3/4" insulation will do the trick and the interior metal will be replaced with Okoume veneer.